Ciao, Camino! It’s been belissimo. Really.
by Captain Bradley
Now is the time.
Goodbye, my Camino Frances.
I may not return, especially alone.
If you’ve followed this blog, you know how I love ❤️ Spain 🇪🇸 and, at this moment, detest my Divided States 🇺🇸 of America. So happy to have four weeks away from the man who shall not be named.
Regardless, it’s about time to fly home to the D.S.A. and my loved ones.
Really loved ones.
Many post about the post-Camino blues and readjusting to their normal lives. Back to normal responsibilities and cares that don’t involve 20-40kms walking 🚶 per day.
I admit that I did had a bit of that after my first Camino. My first European experience was special and rather emotional with my two daughters.
Not as much this time. Just as special, just much less emotional. Except for happiness. Very happy few weeks here with everyone. I love this world 🌎 even more now.
I have a wonderful, gorgeous, and super successful wife, partner, mom, and sales pro supporting me and wanting me home. Two boys that miss me too. Two girls out on their own adventures. And a great life and belissimo hometown to return to in no time.
This last week began in Samos and its Monastery from the 6th century. I made a couple of friends from France 🇫🇷 and Boston/San Diego and they made my lunch and my evening walk joys.
This was and is a lovely town of Samos.
Off to Sarria and just passing through. Too overcrowded. Roughly 60% of Camino pilgrims start there. 5 days to Santiago for that piece of Compostela paper. To each his own Camino.
I filled up my APOC credential and I am now using the Espana credential that I bought for €2 at the Samos Monasterio. Lots of room for stamps.
This last week, as well as parts of the last four weeks from Burgos to Santiago, have been my long goodbye. I know the end of a very good thing when I experience it. Like a sweet beach town with nothing but locals in business turning over to chains and big $$$ business interests. That’s when I need to move on. The magic is gone.
Our Camino now smells of ample Euros. What was €5-7 is now €8-11. Habaticions to ordinary pilgrim meals, the smell of money 💰 is in the Camino air. BTW. Check out the number of BMWs and Mercedes in very strange Camino places. One huge BMW parked on the lot/sidewalk of the newest Albergue in Tríacastela. Not a pilgrim, I’m guessing.
Standard “sandwich ” signage everywhere for sugary desserts and carbon copy pilgrim menus. Hamburgers and pizzas??? I came here to escape America. Not eat more of it.
I love Spain 🇪🇸!!! Her countryside. Her authentic food and her vino tinto. Her happier people. Her rare villager who will smile and offer “Buen Camino!!!” …those 3 older folks…one sweet woman in her gown with a cane, one cigar chomping man on the road, and one beret wearing man sitting under a tree in his backyard….three brief joys and my heart and mind were lifted as I responded “Gracias!!!” to each “Buen Camino!!!!!” each of those three offered right when I needed it. All too rare moments this time on my Camino.
I will indeed miss the cool daily walks on uncertain paths and the sights, sounds, and smells of rural Spain. No doubt there. But, as I’ve shared with many, one can make one’s own Camino everyday, anywhere. Just walk.
Walk through any wooded park. Walk through fields. Walk around any small town or village, if they still exist.
Just walk. And think.
No phone. No tunes. No distractions. Just walk and listen to the natural 🌎 world including your own footsteps. Easy to do in rural Spain. Little traffic. Mostly people on foot. Locals and pilgrims alike. Just walking.
Outside the old to ancient towns and villages, there are a million+ calm and beautiful places to walk by and through…..excluding the tissue strewn areas where grown men and women squat and literally dump on their Camino. 💩 Yuck.
I’ll never understand that level of disrespect for such a special, historic Way of St. James. Tissues used to wipe off the disrespect are all up and down the Camino and don’t think that the locals haven’t noticed. Hence, the lack of “Buen Camino” in the air. More Camino magic lost on me.
Back to the beauty of my last week here in Spain.
Beauty is everywhere here.
My walks alone. Walks with others. Just walking.
Jeremy, an actor from California, was another joy to walk and chat with. We only learned our names hours later at the top of Sarria. Funny. Hours after meeting in the Tríacastela dark. I had a flashlight for us to see our way.
What I love most about my Camino, and travel anywhere , is the unknown that turns into a discovery. A wonderful discovery. Sarria is too big and busy. Barbadelo offered a resort and farmhouse. I wanted more. Delicious menu and belissimo company for the evening. Si. Every night!
Is there a country spot that’s peaceful and smells of fresh air? Yes, there is.
Milano de Marzan.
Her owner looks very young, but acts like a mom to this middle Age pilgrim. Kinda funny. She did not appreciate my efficiency for vino tinto consumption in very remote regions of Spain 🇪🇸. Fair enough. She grew on me.
I chose to miss out on the Barbadelo resort for a farmhouse that wasn’t attended until 1pm. It was 11am. I moved on, with my trusty guide book, and found my paradise for one night. It was more magic.
Once the usual cleaning and laundry was hung, I went for …what else???…another walk. Met several peregrinos along The Way and offered all Buen Camino! with gusto. Most were happy.
God was watching and caring.
I arrived home that night to an almost full room of Italians. I had just slept with a small room of Italians the night before. No bueno.
This group was different. Young to my age. Maybe older. Who knows??? Very friendly. Not detached like the albergue before. They were and are very sweet at dinner and beyond….
I won’t forget our belissimo time together that night and the brief morning walk together too. More than belissimo.
Made my way to Portomarin and very familiar sights. Small river town, but not as small as the Gonzar ahead that we enjoyed before. This town did not smell of cow 🐮 and had more dining and sleeping options.
However, “Completo. Completo. Completo….” was all I heard until I ventured off my Brierley guidebook grid and found a small, family bar albergue with two bunks, four beds and that’s where I settled, washed, and cleaned early.
Sometimes, you just take what you can get for 10€.
Later, to be joined by one BASQUE biker 🚵 and two other Spaniards. There’s a difference… Basque is not Spain 🇪🇸, even though the Basque territory straddles Spain and France 🇫🇷. Watch “The Way”. It explains.
All 3 gents are very nice, very fit, and probably very curious about this large fellow that is not from around here. I understand.
Fine healthy meal, churchside!
Belissimo siesta. Bueno tour around Portomarin.
No cow smell. All good that night.
Tomorrow is another day….
What began as a short 4 hour day turned into an almost 7 hour day covering about 27kms. About my maximum. The nice cafe owner 10km back advised me that his albergue was Completo or full with reservations tonight. One group. A growing Camino issue that goes against the history and spirit, in my opinion. So, I kept walking. I’m pretty well trained these days. Another 10k came and went with beauty…
Until, after offering “Ciao!!” to my Italian ladies, I found my next albergue paradise. First one there again….
Casa Domingo was recommended by a friend of the owners at the Ant sculpture albergue that was Completo. I made it. I rested. I napped. I ate. And I loved Casa Domingo…
After I inhaled my super burger for only 4€, I chatted with the owners who live in the distant farmhouse. They own 8 albergues. Guess where I’m staying tomorrow night?
But, another dinner with a lovely Italian family of 4 and my bunkmate, a German….
The 21 yr old daughter was my family interpreter. They were a joy.
We chatted in the yard all afternoon and after siesta while it rained at dinner. All belissimo. Italians are very curious about America.
I tossed and turned a bit that night, let most bump and thump their way out by 6 and I finally rose to get ready to walk at sunrise.
Other than my classic sunrise 🌅, grande croissant 🥐, and those ancient Roman bridges…all that’s left to show before today’s siesta is the most beautiful young couple in the 🌎!!!!
That photo cannot begin to describe how beautiful these two new “friends” from Madrid are!!! Then, add their curiosity, their youth, their spirits, and their collective energy….so beautiful to spend seconds with them everyday and a good hour with them today!!! They will be missed, as we had to say buenos Dias and Buen Camino to Marta & Danny one last time….
Goodbyes sadden me.
A few family updates and a short siesta later. I’m back. Ready for dinner. Menu sounded so limited and bland, but I am stuck in this one kitchen town. So I thought!
First, my sweet server gives me choices.
Insalata, por favor…..ehhhhh…no tuna. Jamon??? Si, she says. Grilled steak???? Si!!!!
The best grilled meat, fried potato, and fresh insalata with Jamon I’ve ever had…no dressing needed Perfecto!!!!
Then St. James tarta and a mysterious shot. Looked harmless.
Goodnight, sweet Saint James.
Another 20km done today in rain. A 4 hour slog was enough for me and The Way Pensión I booked in Brea allowed me in 2.5 hours early. Being soaked may have helped. The pool is perfect for kids and polar bear challengers.
Hoping for the sun to make an appearance soon or sometime tomorrow. Then on to Santiago on Thursday.
I recall a pretty industrial landscape between here and Santiago de Compestella. Not going to bore anyone with those sights.
Not going to selfie the historic Cathedral either. Plenty of those out there.
I’m just going to end my almost three year fascination & Love affair with Frances this way.
The Way. My Way.
My Love, you know who you are.
Our way from now on.
Gracias for following along.
Find your Camino where your heart is…just be there, walk long walks, and think about your Way everywhere and everyday.